I have been working with your model with some visualizations for a breakwater concept design. I am now trying to work through data produced from an output gage. Can you clarify the values that within the gage text file. The user manual states that columns 3,4 and 5 are w, P and Q, respectively. From my own inspection, it appears that w could be a sea surface term (eta) relative to SWL. Is this correct? Can you explain these terms a bit more? Ultimately, I would like to quantify significant wave height at the gage location as well as Tp and direction.

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Hi Scott and thanks for posting your question on the community page. It may help answering someone else question as well.

As you guessed w is the water surface with respect to a fixed datum. Since we use mwl as datum, w and eta are the same. P is hu an Q is hv, where h is the water depth (from bed to water surface), u is the x-wise velocity, and v is the y-wise velocity. All units are SI. To extract v and u from P and Q, you can calculate h as h = w - z, where z is the bottom elevation (bathymetry) and can be find from the bathymetry file (.cbf).

Regarding extracting Hp and Tp, you will need an external tool, such as a Matlab script. In the tutorial example, there are some simple Matlab scripts to load a gauge output. That can be a starting point. Note that the timestep size between outputs is dt * log_interval.